There have been lots of great jumpsuit pattern releases lately but the Deer and Doe Sirocco really caught my eye as it is a jersey one, which is quite unusual.
I think the shape looks really classic and wearable but I was initially sceptical as it has no openings so the waistband needs to be able to get over your hips but also retain enough shape to sit nicely at the waist. D&D recommend fabrics with at least 60% stretch and it is for that very reason, otherwise you wouldn’t be able to get it off and on!
I felt like I needed to check how this would work on me, as I do have a large difference between by waist and hips and sometimes struggle getting in and out of trousers with a particularly fitted waist! I used a navy ponte for a toile (yes, you heard it, I made a toile! This almost never happens).
I sewed it up using a combination of sewing machine and overlocker. There are some slightly more fiddly bits such as the darts, pockets and neckband that are worth sewing on a regular sewing machine first, just so you can make sure you get them right. I also always pre-sew any areas where there will be a join, such as the underarm or crotch seam, as I find I get a much more controlled finish with a sewing machine, and am able to unpick and reposition easily if I do that and then overlock the whole seam once it is basted in place.
I actually changed the order of construction quite a bit. The pattern advises you to make the front and back separately and then join them together, but I chose to complete the bodice and the trousers and then join them at the waistband, and that worked really well. I also added the sleeves while the bodice was still flat as I always find that easier than when the bodice is already constructed.
Strangely, I tried the trousers on before adding the bodice and I really had my doubts about the whole thing – I thought it looked frumpy and the crotch was way too low. At one point, I thought it was going to end up on the scrap pile and was so glad I hadn’t cut into any fancy fabric. However, I persevered and I am so glad I did. Something magical happened once I tried the finish garment on – it fit. It really fit and I absolutely loved it! (such a rollercoaster!)
The only thing that didn’t fit was the length of the trousers. I had removed an inch from the pattern but I needed to remove a further 6.5 inches as well! I feel like they look much more chic above the ankle.
I just did a simple coverstitched hem for the sleeves and ankles and then they were done.
Overall it was a pretty quick make – squeezed into some quiet time in the shop one day.
One word of advice regarding that waistband though, is to overlock it if you can. You will get popped stitches if you use a normal sewing machine to construct it. If you don’t have an overlocker, then I would recommend using a triple stretch stitch if your machine has one, or worst case, sew that waistband seam twice!
I think the navy ponte makes it look really classic and I will make another version in plain black as I need another outfit for my choir (we perform in all black). But I would love to make the shorter version in a fun floral jersey for the summertime so that is next on my list.
I would highly recommend this pattern as the construction is pretty simple but I would say to try out a test version first as jumpsuits can be notoriously hard to fit.